How to Use & Remove Water-Soluble Stabilizer in Embroidery

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read disclosure for more information.

Water-soluble stabilizer is one of the niftiest inventions for machine and hand embroidery. Also called wash-away stabilizer, this product can function as a backing or topper for your embroidery projects. 

Not only does it help provide a clean stitch out on tricky fabrics, but it also leaves no trace on the back once removed. 

If you’re intrigued, let’s discuss the types of wash-away stabilizers, how to use water-soluble stabilizer for embroidery, and lastly, how to remove water-soluble stabilizer!

how to use and remove water-soluble stabilizer

The Two Types of Water-Soluble Stabilizer

Made from water-soluble fibers, water-soluble stabilizer is designed to dissolve in water after it’s served its purpose as either a topping or stabilizer backing for your embroidery project. 

There are two main types of water-soluble stabilizers: film-like and fibrous paper-like. Each has slightly different properties and can play a different part in creating the perfect project.

Using Water-Soluble Stabilizer as a Topping

topper for minky

Lightweight film-like water-soluble stabilizer (ex. Sulky Solvy) is perfect as an embroidery topper. 

If your fabric has any sort of fluff, pile, nap, or even squishiness you’ll benefit from using a layer of water-soluble topping.

This topping supports stitches and keeps them from sinking into the fabric. Even when embroidering t-shirts that are soft and squishy, I have better results when using water-soluble topping.

As an alternative, if your project cannot be exposed to water but you still need a topper, consider heat-away film, which later brushes off when ironed. 

There are two main methods for using water-soluble topping. You can hoop it with your fabric or you can float it on top.

When floating, use a light layer of temporary spray adhesive, pin, or even tape it to secure it well. Or, you can gently wet the sides of the stabilizer (OUT of the embroidery area) and stick it that way. 

Using Wash-Away Stabilizer as a Backing

two stabilizer layers

Wash-away backing types include the fibrous fabric type and heavy film-like water-soluble stabilizer (ex: Sulky Ultra Solvy).

To use this as a stabilizer, first, select the stabilizer weight and also the number of layers needed based on the characteristics of your fabric and the density of your embroidery design. (Read more in embroidery stabilizer guide.)

Wash-away stabilizer can be hooped behind the fabric that will be machine embroidered. Or, the fabric can be floated on top of just hooped wash-away. (There are also sticky wash-away stabilizers, which are so cool!)

And, in some cases, you can hoop just wash-away stabilizer and then embroider on top of it. This is the case when embroidering free-standing lace or making certain patches.  

Other use examples include hand embroidery, cutwork designs, in-the-hoop embroidery projects, and even embroidering tulle or other sheer fabrics. 

remove the washaway stabilizer

Wash-away stabilizer is a great substitute for tear-away stabilizer, providing a little extra stability and keeping you from having to later pick out tiny pieces from the back of intricate embroidery designs. Basically, use it any time you need no residual stabilizer and aren’t dependent on the stability of a cut-away stabilizer. 

For very dense designs or very stretchy fabric, though, water-soluble stabilizer just might not be an option. In this case, you’ll have to switch to a cut-away or no-show mesh stabilizer for added stability.

How to Remove Water-Soluble Stabilizer

soak the stabilizer in a bowl of water

If you’ve used wash-away stabilizer as your embroidery backing, the best removal method is to trim the stabilizer close to the back of the design using your favorite embroidery scissors. (Mine are duckbill applique scissors!)

Then, run the embroidered item through the washer, soak it in water, or even run it under the tap until the stabilizer is dissolved. 

You do need to wash all the paper-type of wash-away stabilizer out of the project the first time around. Otherwise, the stiffness it provides once dried might be permanent. While this may be preferable when embroidering free-standing lace, your in-the-hoop project might need a softer feel. 

tearing off the topper

If you’ve used a water-soluble topper, clip any jump stitches first and then tear off as much stabilizer as you can with your fingers. Then, you have a few options for removing the remaining water-soluble stabilizer. 

1. Tap Water

Soak the blank in water, run it under the tap, or put it through the washer. Easy peasy, but this takes some time for the blank to dry. 

You can even use a wet cotton swab or moistened paper towel if you want faster drying. I’ve seen some people use baby wipes, but the brand I use for my younger daughter leaves too much lint. 

2. Use a Seam-Fix Remover

use a seam fix-it

I saw the method of using a Seam-Fix to remove water-soluble topping on Craftsy, and I was excited to try it! It was kind of a let-down honestly. It worked GREAT for some fabrics, and then others like the towel above, not so much.

However, if you despise exposing your fabric to water to remove the topper, you might enjoy experimenting with this option!

3. Damp Paper Towel + Iron

how to remove water-soluble stabilizer with an iron

As per Sulky’s recommendation, it’s super effective to place a damp, textured paper towel on top of your finished design and then press with an iron on medium heat with no steam.

All the topping then sticks to the paper towel when you remove it. (I like using my mini-iron for better control of the area pressed.)

This is not my go-to, though, despite how well it works.

First, you have to be super careful that you’re only holding the iron there for a split second. And, ironing embroidery from the front is an awful idea if you’re using metallic threads or specialized types of fabric. I just don’t chance it for my delicate projects. 

4. A Tennis Ball

I recently saw that you can use a tennis ball to help remove water-soluble topping. Here’s John Deer’s video video about this method. I’ve never tried it, but it looks intriguing!

Reusing Water-Soluble Stabilizer as Liquid Stabilizer

making liquid stabilizer

If you’re thrifty or a repurposing lover like me, you’ll be excited to know you can reuse the small water-soluble stabilizer scraps to make liquid spray stabilizer. 

This is a great way to stabilize thinner fabrics before embroidering (you’ll still want an actual stabilizer on the back, too.)

It’s also great for stopping knit fabric from curling at the edges and works well in place of starch or Terial Magic for many projects. When you launder your item the first time, it washes out. 

Here are instructions from Sulky’s blog for how to make some! I do usually omit the rubbing alcohol with no consequences. 

 

I hope this tutorial has taught you everything you need to know about using and removing water-soluble stabilizer. If you want to learn more about other types, check out how to use stabilizer for machine embroidery!

2 Comments

  1. Hi, thank you for all of the above information on removing water soluble stabilizers. Unfortunately, I have experienced a nightmare with my stabilizer. I stitched about 25 handkerchiefs for my church. Half of them were 100% cotton, the other half were a blend. The blend hankies are rather thin. I used Ken’s Sew N Wash Stabilizer. You hoop it, score the top sheet to tear it off and expose the sticky stabilizer. I put the hankies in the wash, and they came out with balls of sticky residue all over them front and back, not on the 100% cotton hankies, just the blends. I put them back in for a soak, then another wash, but they remained the same. I’ve tried all the “tricks,” but short of finger picking each spot of residue (some being a little ball and some being a long string), I’m afraid they are ruined. I am going to reach out to Ken’s Sewing Center, Muscle Shoals, Al. for their input. I’ve been making these hankies for my church for years. Originally, I used Badgemaster water soluble, but it never wanted to come out and left the hankies stiff. Then, the Badgemaster turned yellow and caused my white thread to also turn yellow on the hankie. Not knowing what else to do (a tear away pulls too much on the delicate stitching and also way too much picking for the number of hankies that I do for each order), I started using two sheets of a water soluble topper, hooped, and then used Gunold spray adhesive on the hankie. With each hankie, I hold my breath, because it’s not really stabilized like I know it should be. With the Ken’s stabilizer, embroidering was a dream. Removing the stabilizer was and still is my nightmare. If you have any thoughts or suggestions, both would be appreciated. Thanks you. Sharlene

    1. Hmmm, that’s interesting, and I definitely recommend reaching out to Ken’s for troubleshooting regarding their specific brand.

      In terms of other options, have you tried something like Sulky Ultra Solvy (the really thick plastic film, not the thinner Solvy topper) hooped as the stabilizer? It has no adhesive on it, but if you lightly rub the top with an itty bitty bit of water when it’s hooped, it gets slightly damp and sticky. When it dries, it acts like an adhesive stabilizer, but without the “stickiness” from the adhesive. When I’ve used it with my projects (admittedly, not hankies), it always very easily washes off in the first trip through the warm cycle on my washer and it keeps things stabilized really well during the stitching process.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.