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It’s Christmas crafting time over here, which means coming up with as many presents that can be made with my sewing machine, embroidery machine, or Cricut Maker. I always prefer handmade gifts because they’re inexpensive, more thoughtful, and people can’t return them! (We all have that family member, right?!) Plus, we’re in the middle of a pandemic, so browsing stores is out of the question.
For my daughters, their friends, and my niece, I’ve been working on embroidering hair bows with their initials or other cute, small designs. While I could have monogrammed the ribbon for the bows and then made the bows myself, I’m all about saving time. I found a monster bag of premade hair bows on Amazon for less than $10 for 30 of them, and boom! All the young girls are getting embroidered hair bows!
This took a little bit of experimentation, but I finally figure out how to embroider hair bows without puckering on the ribbon. I’ll show you how in this easy tutorial!
Hair Bow Embroidery Supplies
Here are the exact supplies that I used to monogram my hair bows.
- Hair bows (they need to have a ribbon tail that is long enough to float in your hoop; here are the 4.5″ ones I bought)
- Stabilizer: self-adhesive, sticky tear-away stabilizer (I used Sulky brand.)
- Thread: 100% polyester embroidery thread (you could also use rayon)
- Needle: 75/11 embroidery needle
- Small scissors
- Marking tools (I used a water-soluble fabric marking pen)
- Embroidery machine and hoop
- Embroidery design
Best Stabilizer for Grosgrain Ribbon Bows
The most important thing with grosgrain ribbon bows is that you have the ribbon held very securely to the stabilizer while you embroider. If you’re using a premade bow, there’s no way you’ll be able to hoop the bow to provide stability. Thus, when you float the bow, you need to do so securely.
When learning how to embroider hair bows, I first tried wash-away stabilizer and then PolyMesh stabilizer, both times using Odif 505 temporary fabric adhesive. The grip between the stabilizer and ribbon was just not good enough to keep the stitches from puckering in around the edges. (See below.)
Ultimately, I had the best luck with self-adhesive sticky tear-away stabilizer. The strong adhesive surface had the best grip on the ribbon, meaning less movement while stitching. If you have any type of self-adhesive stabilizer (sticky wash-away or cut-away), these will work as well.
Lost and don’t know what all these stabilizers are? Check out my guide to embroidery stabilizers!
Embroidery Design Selection & Stitch Density
Embroidering on a ribbon bow takes a very small design! If your design has too high of a stitch density, then the ribbon will pucker and curl up on itself. If you go to shrink a larger design, make sure you have your embroidery software scale the number of stitches to a smaller number as well. Shrinking a design without paying attention to the new stitch density will not end up with good results!
When I tried to use the built-in fonts on my Brother SE1900 embroidery machine, I found that the smallest letters available were still too big for my hair bow. So, I had to take a font I had already downloaded and then use software to decrease design size and recalculate the number of stitches. It turned out to be a very small, sparsely stitched monogram!
Choosing a Hoop Size
At first, my plan was to use the smallest hoop I have available for my machine to save on stabilizer and also make centering the bow easier. As it turns out, this did not produce my best results. Because the hoop was so small, the bow rested on the side of the hoop. This meant it didn’t have as secure of a grip to the stabilizer underneath. (See above.)
My best results came from using a hoop where the entire ribbon tail and bow would fit within the edges of the hoop frame. (This was done with a 4″x4″ hoop since my bows were pretty small.)
How to Embroider Hair Bows: Step-By-Step Tutorial
Now, let’s get into how to make monogrammed hair bows using premade bows!
Prepping the Hair Bow
The first thing you need to do is mark the bow where you want the center of the design to go. While you can eyeball this or measure with a ruler, sometimes printing out a template from your embroidery software can be helpful! It’s a matter of personal preference, but I like my monograms closer to the bottom of the ribbon rather than near the center of the bow.
I used a water-soluble fabric marking pen to make a vertical and horizontal line on the bow to denote design placement. For my dark bows, I used a chalk wheel since the pen wouldn’t show up.
Preparing the Hoop & Floating the Bow
Next, hoop one layer of sticky self-adhesive stabilizer. The rougher, papery part of the stabilizer will be facing down, and the slick, white backing will be facing up. (Read: how to hoop in embroidery for tips and tricks if you need!)
Then, take the tip of a sharp pin and run it around the edge of the stabilizer inside the hoop making sure not to poke through the stabilizer. This is called scoring and will help you remove the paper backing.
Now, remove the paper backing off the top of the stabilizer to reveal the sticky surface. It’s easiest if you start removing the backing from one of the corners where you scored it and pull. It doesn’t have to be perfect or pretty! As long as the area where you plan to stick the bow has no backing. And if you’d like, this is a good time to draw pencil marks on the stabilizer where the center of the hoop is. (This makes centering the bow in the hoop easier. Just make sure not to poke through the stabilizer. The lines will be just visible.)
Now, press the ribbon part of the hair bow onto the center of the stabilizer. Make sure the marked lines of the bow line up with the marked lines of the stabilizer. I found it easiest if I floated the bow with the largest part of it facing away from the inside of the machine. If your machine embroidery arm has a different orientation, you may want to play with hooping to find the best direction.
Embroidering the Hair Bow
Now, gently place your hoop into the arm of your embroidery machine. Line up the embroidery foot with the center of the marked area on the bow.
Load your design, and make sure it is oriented in the correct direction. Do a quick check to make sure you have the right needle, the right top thread, and the right bobbin thread. I didn’t care what the back of the bow looked like, so I kept my white bobbin thread loaded.
Then, make sure you preview the design on your machine at all four corners to make sure the bow is not going to run into the machine head or presser foot during stitching.
Once the bow has been embroidered, remove the stabilizer from the hoop. Then, gently tear it away from the back of the grosgrain ribbon. I had the best results when I gently held the center of the monogram with one hand to keep it from distorting or being pulled from the pressure of ripping away the stabilizer.
Then, trim any jump stitches with a small pair of embroidery scissors. And lastly, remove the markings from your bow. For me, this meant running the bow under water for a couple of seconds. Once the bow dried, it was perfect!
And that’s it!
How to Embroider Hair Bows – Final Notes
I hope this embroidery machine tutorial has taught you everything you need to know about making monogrammed bows. These are cute, easy, and inexpensive gifts for friends and family!
And, if you’re new to embroidery, check out how to use an embroidery machine to learn more about the process and find more cute project ideas!